From Idea to 3D Print: Making Custom Shower Curtain Hangers
Updated September 26, 2026
I forgot to buy hangers for my shower curtain, so I made one instead. This tutorial takes a seahorse design from a ChatGPT image through Inkscape and Autodesk Fusion (formerly Fusion 360), then prepares it for a two-color print in PrusaSlicer.
What You’ll Learn
- Turn a black-and-white image into an SVG with Inkscape.
- Import and clean up SVG geometry in Fusion.
- Build a hanger with clearance around the curtain rod and a hook for the curtain.
- Use separate bodies and different extrusion heights for a two-color print.
- Export the model and arrange multiple hangers in PrusaSlicer.
Watch the Workflow — or Read It Step by Step
You can follow this guide in two ways:
- Read the steps below if you want quick written instructions, reference images, and modeling notes.
- Watch the full video at the end of this post to see the workflow in real time — including extra tips, camera angles, and shortcuts that don’t fit neatly into text.
Both formats build on each other.
Reading helps you understand why each step matters, while watching shows how to move faster in Fusion.
Step 1: Develop the Seahorse Design
I started in ChatGPT with a prompt for the hanger’s shape. My first prompt was open to interpretation and produced a funny result. A more precise second prompt gave me a seahorse design I could refine in Fusion.
The generated image is a starting point, not a finished mechanical part. The rod opening, curtain hook, and printable geometry still need to be designed and checked.
The first prompt describes the idea for a seahorse shower curtain hanger, but the generated result places a seahorse on the curtain itself. The wording leaves room for more than one interpretation of where the seahorse belongs.
That result gives the design brief a useful correction: the seahorse needs to form the hanger that connects the curtain to the rod.
A more specific prompt produces a black seahorse silhouette with a hook extending above its head. The clear outline gives Inkscape a suitable starting point for tracing.
The hook and seahorse are now part of one shape. Their connection will need particular attention when the outline becomes a printable part.
Step 2: Trace the Image in Inkscape
Manual tracing would take time, so I used Inkscape to trace the black-and-white image. Its clear contrast helps the tracing tool identify the edges.
After applying the trace, delete the original image and save the traced result as an SVG file. Keep it somewhere easy to find for the import into Fusion.
Open the generated design in Inkscape as a reference image. The raster artwork provides the shape, while the next steps turn its visible edges into vector paths.
Starting with a high-contrast black-and-white design makes the edge detection easier to assess.
The import dialog controls how the reference image enters the Inkscape document. Keep the artwork at a usable size so that its outline and smaller internal details remain easy to inspect.
The document is only an intermediate workspace. The SVG paths, rather than the page background, are what will be taken into Fusion.
Use Trace Bitmap to convert the high-contrast raster design into vector paths. Inspect the preview before applying the trace, particularly around the hook, eye, ribs, and curled tail.
Small gaps or excess traced details can create awkward sketch profiles after import into Fusion.
Move the traced result away from the original image to compare the two. This makes it easier to spot missing details, doubled edges, or unwanted areas before saving the vector file.
The traced version contains editable paths; the original remains a raster reference.
Remove the original raster image once the trace is satisfactory, then save the remaining paths as an SVG. This keeps the file focused on the geometry Fusion needs to import.
Check that the hook and seahorse outline remain intact after removing the reference image.
Step 3: Create a Component and Import the SVG
In Fusion, create a new component and give it a descriptive name. Work inside that active component so the hanger’s sketches and bodies stay organized.
Create a new component in Fusion and give it a descriptive name before importing the SVG. The component becomes the container for the sketches and bodies that make up this hanger.
Keeping the design inside its own component also makes the Browser easier to navigate as the traced artwork produces multiple profiles and bodies.
Insert the SVG onto the flat horizontal construction plane. You can flip or scale it during import if necessary. I checked its size before recording, so I accepted the import without adjustments.
Use Fusion’s command search to locate Insert SVG. This is the command that brings the traced Inkscape paths into a Fusion sketch.
The SVG will be placed on a selected plane, so choose the plane according to the direction in which you want to build the flat hanger.
In the Insert dialog, choose Insert from my computer and select the SVG saved from Inkscape. This imports the local vector file rather than searching Fusion project files.
Make sure you select the traced SVG, not the original raster image.
Place the SVG on the horizontal sketch plane. Fusion’s Insert SVG controls allow you to move, rotate, flip, or scale the paths before confirming the import.
The tutorial’s sizing was checked before recording, so the design can be accepted without further scaling at this step.
Step 4: Unlock and Clean Up the Sketch
The imported sketch appears green because a Fix Constraint locks its geometry. To make it editable, right-click the sketch in the timeline, choose Edit Sketch, select everything, and click the lock icon in the toolbar. The geometry turns blue when it is unconstrained.
The imported SVG geometry is selected in the sketch. Remove its Fix/UnFix constraint where editing is needed, so individual lines can be adjusted.
A traced SVG can contain many small segments. Select carefully before changing constraints to avoid moving or altering parts of the design unintentionally.
Use Trim to remove parts of the traced outline that the hanger does not need. Trim the support line and clean up any disconnected geometry. An image trace can produce lines that look fine on screen but interfere with closed sketch profiles, so inspect the areas you plan to extrude.
Use Trim to remove overlapping or unnecessary sketch segments. Here the cleanup focuses on the connection between the curved hook and the seahorse outline.
A clean boundary helps Fusion recognize the intended closed profiles when the design is extruded.
Step 5: Draw the Opening for the Curtain Rod
Add sketch geometry to define the hanger around the curtain rod. Leave space for the hanger to slide: a gap that seems adequate while the part is held straight can feel tighter when it tilts during use.
Use Offset to create a consistent width around this part of the design. The direct shortcut is O; you can also press S to open the shortcut toolbox and select Offset there. I used a 3 mm offset, then trimmed the extra lines.
That width is a practical starting point for this print, but the final fit depends on your rod diameter, filament, printer, and print orientation. Check the actual rod before making a full set of hangers.
Draw the circular opening that will sit around the shower curtain rod. Position it in relation to the seahorse so the ring connects to the rest of the hanger.
Check both the opening and the surrounding material: the ring must fit the rod while retaining enough material to function as part of the printed shape.
Step 6: Shape the Curtain Hook
Draw the smaller hook that holds the curtain. Circles and arcs are useful when you want controlled, predictable curves. Splines give you more freedom to blend the hook into the seahorse shape.
If you use a spline, keep its control points to a minimum and adjust the green handles for a smooth curve. Offset it when you want a second curve at a consistent distance, or draw another spline for a different shape.
Close any open profiles and trim excess lines. Clean, separate profiles are easier to extrude at different heights or organize as separate bodies for a multicolor 3MF export.
Inspect the closely spaced curves around the curled tail and refine the outline where needed. This is one of the most detailed areas of the traced design.
Removing stray segments or unintended intersections here reduces the chance of tiny isolated profiles during extrusion.
Step 7: Extrude the Design to Two Heights
Extrude the first set of profiles to 3 mm. Make the sketch visible again if Fusion hides it after the extrusion, then extrude the next set to 4 mm.
Select the closed profiles and use Extrude to turn the flat sketch into solid geometry. The ring and seahorse must form a connected part where they meet.
Review the highlighted selection before confirming the extrusion. Traced artwork often creates numerous small profiles, and it is easy to miss one.
The two heights create a visible and tactile difference. They also give a single-extruder printer a layer boundary where you can make a manual filament change. Keep the hanger’s functional contact areas in mind: decorative height changes should not obstruct the rod opening or the curtain hook.
For the second extrusion, Fusion may suggest Join. Switch the operation to New Body so the parts remain separate. If you miss a profile, edit the extrude feature in the timeline and add it to that operation. Hide the sketch and use the view cube to inspect the complete model.
Extrude the selected internal artwork to give the seahorse’s ribs, face, and tail detail their own depth. The preview separates these details visually from the main outline.
Keeping the decorative features as distinct geometry also allows them to be assessed individually before preparing the model for printing.
Step 8: Preview Colors and Refine the Edges
You can apply appearances by dragging them onto the model, or by selecting bodies in the browser and applying an appearance there. Naming the bodies makes the browser method easier when the model gets more complex.
Apply appearances in Fusion to distinguish the main hanger body from its raised details. The contrasting colors make the layered design easier to inspect.
Appearance changes the model’s display in Fusion; the print colors are determined separately by the printing workflow.
These appearances are a visual preview; the actual colors come from the filament and the slicer setup. If you have a multicolor printer, separate bodies can also help when assigning colors in a 3MF workflow.
Use Chamfer or Fillet to soften sharp edges where the geometry allows. Rounded contact edges can make the hanger more pleasant to handle and less likely to catch on the curtain. The model’s thickness limits how large those edge treatments can be, so inspect the result before exporting.
Use Chamfer on the selected edge to replace its sharp corner with a straight bevel. Inspect the preview around the curled tail, where nearby decorative geometry limits the available space.
If Fusion cannot complete the chamfer, reduce its size or select a shorter set of edges.
Use Fillet to round the selected edge of the hanger. Unlike the straight bevel made by Chamfer, a fillet creates a curved transition.
Check the preview before accepting it, especially near the narrow tail and small raised features.
Step 9: Save and Export the Hanger
Save the Fusion design before exporting. If you want to export only this component, right-click it and choose Save as Mesh.
Fusion lets you choose a mesh format at this stage. I used STL for this print. If you need to preserve separate bodies for a multicolor workflow, check the available 3MF export and slicer options instead.
Prepare the completed hanger for slicing by exporting its printable geometry from Fusion. Confirm that the selected component or body includes the ring, seahorse, and intended surface details.
Inspect the exported model in the slicer afterward; that is the practical check that all intended geometry made it into the print file.
Step 10: Arrange and Slice in PrusaSlicer
Import the mesh into PrusaSlicer. It appears centered on the build plate by default. Right-click the model to fill the bed with multiple aligned instances if you want to print a set.
In PrusaSlicer, use File → Import → Import STL/3MF/STEP/OBJ/AMF to load the exported hanger. The model can then be positioned and duplicated on the virtual build plate.
The visible setup uses an Original Prusa i3 printer profile, Generic PLA, 0.20 mm Quality, 15% infill, and no supports.
Create additional instances of the hanger and arrange them on the build plate. Printing several together makes a matching set for the shower curtain.
Leave space between instances so their first layers remain separate and the slicer can generate each outline cleanly.
PrusaSlicer detects a likely layer break for the color change. Confirm it, inspect the setup manually, and slice again. Before printing, check that every instance is fully inside the build plate boundaries.
This is a flat design, so placing its broad face on the build plate gives it good contact with the bed and lets the raised details build upward. Preview the toolpaths and the color-change layer before starting the full print.
Review the sliced toolpaths for all six hangers before using Export G-code. The preview shows a color change at a chosen height, separating the seahorse detail from the main body.
The visible estimate is about 5 hours and 44 minutes for the plate. Check the layer preview around the color change to confirm it occurs at the intended feature height.
Step 11: Print and Check the Fit
My print turned out well, but the real test is on the shower rod. Check that the hanger slides freely, stays in place during normal use, and holds the curtain without the smaller hook spreading or catching.
If the fit is tight, adjust the rod opening in Fusion and print one revised hanger before making another full set. You can get my file for a small symbolic fee through the link in the video description.
The finished hangers sit along the shower curtain rod, with each seahorse hanging below its ring. The repeated pieces show how the design works as a complete curtain set.
The installed result also provides a final fit check for the rod opening and the connection between the ring and seahorse.
Key Takeaways
- A traced SVG can speed up the decorative shape, while Fusion lets you build and refine the functional hanger geometry.
- The 3 mm offset gives this design a consistent starting width; test the finished fit against your own curtain rod.
- Separate bodies and 3 mm and 4 mm extrusion heights make the design suitable for the two-color approach shown here.
- Inspect closed profiles, edge treatments, build plate placement, and the layer-change preview before printing multiple copies.
- Print one hanger first to check the rod clearance and curtain hook in real use.
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Enjoyed turning a practical household need into a 3D-printed design? These Fusion tutorials apply the same approach to soap holders, with attention to shape, drainage, and parts you can print and use.
Together with the shower curtain hanger, these projects offer more ways to practice modeling everyday objects in Fusion and preparing them for 3D printing.
Chapters
00:07 Start your 3D design with ChatGPT
00:26 How to trace images into SVG with Inkscape
00:50 The first rule when modeling in Fusion
01:02 How to insert an SVG file in Fusion
01:36 How to unfix sketches in Fusion
02:13 How to trim sketches in Fusion
02:53 Add a 2-point circle for your hanger design
03:53 How to sketch with Splines in Fusion
04:25 How to offset Splines in Fusion
05:10 How to extrude to different heights in Fusion
06:21 Fusion operation type explained
06:40 Fixing missed extrudes in Fusion timeline
07:18 3D printing tips for multi-color printers
07:46 How to add appearances in Fusion
08:10 How to refine edges with chamfers and fillets
08:44 How to save and export in Fusion
08:59 Export as mesh file in Fusion
09:18 How to import STL into PrusaSlicer
09:30 How to fill the print bed with multiple objects
09:46 How to add manual layer changes for color swap
10:44 More Fusion and 3D printing tutorials by The Maker Letters